tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2065249958925006388.post6232344900006508989..comments2023-03-31T02:29:54.142-07:00Comments on kWsaki: Ambiguity of energy consumptionjsantalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13711677346363688402noreply@blogger.comBlogger2125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2065249958925006388.post-31162012084085965382014-07-25T11:49:44.092-07:002014-07-25T11:49:44.092-07:00In an ideal world both Ah in and Ah out should mat...In an ideal world both Ah in and Ah out should match, but as it's not very simple to accurately measure frequently changing 0-600 amps out and a steady 20 amps in on the same shunt, you never quite get there. I did mamage to make it match a little better already by removing the extension I had made to the Cycle Analyst shunt cable and also moving the shunt right on the controller minus input, which may or may not make a difference. Unfortunately Cycle Analyst only counts Wh out of the pack, but not in, so I mainly end up using just the Ah display. I haven't yet tested how many Ah out it would now read after full discharge or how much the new tires have improved my Wh/km, which I'm quite sure they have.jsantalahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13711677346363688402noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2065249958925006388.post-47746626270358558372014-07-25T08:09:47.677-07:002014-07-25T08:09:47.677-07:00I think the difference between the in and out Ah-r...I think the difference between the in and out Ah-readings are right. When you are charging the amps are lower and when you discharge the amps are higher.<br />I would change from measuring the Ah to measuring the kWh instead. You would more accurate data of your energy consumption.<br />I noticed this in my own project by draining my 100Ah-pack empty with JLD404 showing only 88Ah... Lucky me it was only 500m from my home.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02742717569662389757noreply@blogger.com